Market Segments
		Entry Level	Amateur	Prosumer	Semi Professional	Professional	High End Professional
	Canon		EOS-350D	EOS-30D	EOS-5D	EOS-1D Mark II	EOS-1Ds Mark II
	Fuji			S2 Pro S3 Pro
	Konica-Minolta		Dynax 5D*	Dynax 7D
	Nikon	D50	D70s	D200		D2x, D2Hs	D3H (coming soon)
	Olympus	E-500	E-1 E-330
	Pentax	*ist Ds2, *ist DL	*istD
	Samsung	GX-1S, GX-1L

Market Segment Classification Criteria
These criteria have been crafted in order to divide the available digital SLRs into the commonly accepted market segments. None of this is absolute, or worth getting upset about. There are arguments that could be made for different placements. The segments are determined by a combination of factors, including image quality, quality of construction, features, and price. Actual megapixel resolution is not a major factor (only when the resolution is extremely low, is it considered).

There is a distinction between the level of the equipment and the person that uses it. Certainly a professional photographer might buy a Nikon D70, but this does not change the features or quality of the camera. Conversely, a well-off amateur might buy a Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II, but that does not put the EOS-1Ds Mark II into the amateur category. Some people love to post platitudes such as "it's who's behind the camera that makes it professional or not," but they do not understand the difference between equipment and photographers.

• Professional        x
  At the high end of the professional level you have full-featured cameras with top-of-the line, high resolution, low-noise, full-frame sensors (1x crop factor), or close to full frame sensors, and mirror lock-up.
   

• Prosumer         x
  These cameras have lower resolution than the professional models, but will have more features and are better constructed than the amateur models with the same sensors. Cameras in this category include the Canon EOS-20D, the Nikon D200, and the Fuji S3 Pro and S2 Pro.
   

• Amateur        x
  These cameras have similar resolution to the Prosumer models, but may have some features removed, and may have a lower grade of material for the body. Cameras in this category include the Canon EOS-350D (Digital Rebel xt), the Nikon D70s,  and the Pentax *istD. The Nikon D70s was difficult to categorize, as in many ways it is much better than the other cameras in the amateur segment. But the D70s lacks key prosumer features such as mirror lock-up and vertical grip connections.
   

• Entry Level        x
  These are low-priced, de-featured models, for people that want a digital SLR at the lowest possible price. Older models sometimes move into this category as they are eclipsed by newer models. Cameras in this category include the Nikon D50, the Olympus E-330,  the Pentax *istDs2, and the Konica-Minolta Dynax 5D.

Summary of Attributes to Consider

Enter the selection process with an open mind, but be certain to consider various attributes of each model you are looking at. These are some of the things you need to look at during the selection process:

• Resolution

• Crop Factor

• Lens Mount

• Lens Availability in terms of both focal lengths and quality

• Noise

• Moiré

• Accessory availability, especially vertical grips, flashes, and remote controls)

• Upgrade path from the manufacturer (are there better bodies and lenses available)

• Battery Type (AA NiMH or Proprietary Li-Ion)

• Continuous Frame Rate

• Mirror Lock-Up

• Spot Metering

• Memory Card Type (Compact Flash or Secure Digital)

• LCD Size

• Viewfinder Magnification

• Shutter Rating (cycles)

• Size and Weight

• Ergonomics

• Price

Absolute Requirements

• Minimum 6 megapixel resolution          x
  There really is no reason to go below 6 megapixels at this point in time. You don't want to go crazy looking only at megapixels, but you also want to have sufficient resolution for large prints. The few sub-6 megapixel D-SLR cameras are all rather old models that few people would consider buying anyway, and the one recent model that is 5 megapixels has enough other issues to eliminate it from consideration. The Nikon D2H/D2Hs is an exception to this requirement, for those users who need very high frame rates, and a large buffer. 
   

  Resolution Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)

   

• Maximum of 1.6 Crop Factor if Using Existing Lenses from full frame Film D-SLR          x
  The crop factor (focal length multiplier) mainly relates to how wide angle, a wide angle lens actually is. For instance, with a 1.6 crop factor, a 10-22mm lens is actually equivalent to a 16-35 lens on a 35mm camera. Amateur, prosumer, and some low-end professional digital SLRs have crop factors from 1.5 to 2.0. Try to stay at 1.6 or under if using the same mount as a 35mm camera. 
   

  Focal Length Multiplier Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)	Sensor Dimensions Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)

   

• Lens Availability, Price, and Quality          x
  Lens availability and quality should play a key role in your selection of a digital SLR. The crop factor means that you can't simply go by what is available for a 35mm full-frame camera. 
  
  The biggest problem with lenses has been in the super-wide-angle zoom, but this has now been solved (or is in the process of being solved), at least for non-professional quality lenses:.
      -Canon has the 10-22 EF-S (35mm equivalent: 16-35)
      -Konica-Minolta has announced the  AF DT 11-18mm (35mm equivalent: 16.5-27)
      -Nikon has the 12-24 DX (35mm equivalent: 18-36)
      -Olympus has the Zuiko Digital ED 7-14mm (35mm equivalent: 14-28) 
      -Pentax has announced the DA 12-24 (35mm equivalent: 18-36)
  
  Look at differences in price for the lenses you want. For example, for the Canon 20D, 300D, and 350D, a popular wide-angle lens is the EF-s 10-22, which you can purchase for around $650 on sale. For the Nikon D70 and D100, the similar quality, Nikon 12-24mm DX sells for about $930 at the lowest priced, reliable on-line vendor (though you can get the import version for $900 from B&H Photo). A major advantage of Canon is that they distribute their products via more channels than Nikon, so there is more price competition.
  
  One advantage of Nikon's using a 1.5 crop factor in their professional models is that there are more lenses available that compensate for the crop factor. I.e. Nikon offers a 10.5mm FishEye lens, but Canon has nothing close to this lens. Apparently Canon's position is that if you want this wide of a prime lens, then you should be buying a Canon body with a smaller crop factor; this is a disappointment because so many professionals are going with the Canon 20D, due to its more reasonable price, and they have no very wide angle prime lens available for the 20D.
  
  The limitations of the Nikon lens mount mean that certain lenses than Canon has, are simply not possible. These are mainly the very fast, and very expensive, professional lenses, such as the Canon 50m/f1.0 and the 85mm/f1.2. If you really need such fast lenses, then you will need to go the Canon route.
  
  For some reason Nikon does not produce VR (Vibration Reduction) lenses in focal lengths greater than 300mm, while Canon has 400mm and a 600mm telephotos with IS. These are very expensive ($6500-7000) professional lenses which an amateur would be unlikely to purchase, but which are used by many professional sports photographers. Again, if you really need such lenses, then you will need to go the Canon route. Remember, if you need one of these lenses for an occasional shoot, you can rent one.
  
  Canon EF-s lenses cannot be used on their higher-end models, the EOS-5D, 1D Mark II and 1Ds Mark II. Keep this in mind when you purchase lenses, as there are several highly desirable EF-s lenses for the 20D and 350D. If you upgrade to full-frame in the future, these lenses can no longer be used. On the plus side, used Canon lenses have a very high resale value, so you can recoup 60-80% of your initial purchase price.

• Low noise & Accurate Color, at least up to ISO 400, Preferably up to ISO 800          x
  Some D-SLRs have high resolution sensors, but have high noise levels at higher ISO settings. Other D-SLRs lose color accuracy at higher ISO settings.
  
  For low noise at very high ISO settings (1600), you're limited to cameras from Canon and Fuji. These two companies, which manufacture their own sensors, have taken radically different approaches in their sensor design. The up-side of the Canon sensors is that they deliver better color accuracy than Fuji's sensors. Even the Nikon D2x disappoints, with unacceptably high noise above ISO 800.
   

• Accessory Availability         x
  Ensure that any accessories that you may be interested in, are actually available (not just promised). These include such items as vertical grips, dioptric adjustment lenses, eyepiece extenders, off-camera flash shoe cords, remote controls, etc. For example, Nikon does not make a vertical control grip/battery holder for the D70s (though vertical grips are such a crucial accessory to many people, that three aftermarket vertical grips are now available (Harbortronics VG-D70  or Hoodman HVPG-D70 or Merkury MI-BG-N70)). There is a battery grip (no shutter-release) for the Nikon D50, see MI-BG-N50. Pentax has a vertical grip for the *istD, but not the *istDs. After-market accessories are usually only developed for the most popular, high-volume models of cameras.
   

• Remote Control      x
  A remote control is a useful feature for including yourself in photos, or for taking photos when you are not close to the camera. Wireless remotes can use infrared  or radio-frequency. The advantage of a radio-frequency remote is that it does not require line-of-sight, but infrared capability is much less expensive to implement. Wired remotes connect to a jack on the camera. You cannot really take a photo of yourself, using an infrared remote, because you will be seen pointing the remote at the camera, but with an RF or wired remote, which isn't line-of-sight, you can press the button with a foot, or have the remote hidden in your hand. Of course you can use a self-timer without the need for a remote.
  
  While a wireless remote seems like it would always be better than a wired remote, this is not always the case, especially for infrared remotes. There are bite switches, foot switches, and automated controllers that require a wired remote. If you need this capability, be certain that it is provided in the body that you select. Infrared remotes are the cheapest to implement on camera bodies, and lower-end bodies will often omit a jack for a wired remote (extra plugs and jacks add a lot of cost to a camera body). A wired remote jack can be added to the Nikon D70 and Fuji S2, see http://www.harbortronics.com/BodyMod.pdf, but it is an expensive modification. One of the feature upgrades on the Nikon D70s is a wired remote jack.
  
  It really sucks that Canon did not include infrared or RF remote capability on the EOS-20D, only a wired remote can be used (a wireless remote receiver that plugs into the wired remote jack is available from Canon, but it is very expensive). There are also aftermarket wireless remotes for the Canon D30, D60, 10D, 20D, 1D, 1DS, 1D Mark II, Nikon D100, and Fuji S3 at http://www.brightscreen.com/remote.htm, but even this costs $230. http://www.adidt.com/English/Products/R3_prices.htm seems to be the best deal, at $150 plus $25 shipping from China (available only on eBay).
   
  Many cameras also allow remote control via the USB interface.
   

• Upgrade Path        x
  If you expect to move up from amateur to prosumer, from prosumer to professional, select a system that allows this transition without buying every piece over again. If you have professional aspirations, don't start buying lenses for a lens mount that doesn't have any professional bodies available. 
  

Please also see: What a Professional Looks for in a Digital SLR

Other Important Considerations

There are often features and capabilities that amateurs will ignore when researching products. They do this because they either do not understand, or cannot imagine, the need for those features and capabilities. However, as they become more experienced, they may regret not having those features and capabilities available.

We will attempt to explain some of these features and capabilities, and why they are useful. Beware of advice that goes something like this: "you don't need feature XYZ because I never use it;" Just because someone else doesn't need a specific feature doesn't mean that you don't need it.

• Continuous Frame Rate   
  If you need to shoot frames in rapid succession, i.e. for fast action sports photography, look at the frame rate spec. Three frames per second should be the minimum, but some very high end models can do eight frames per second. Also look at how long the frame rate can be sustained, which is dependent on the buffer depth. Once the buffer is full, the camera cannot take any more photos until the contents of the buffer are transferred to the slower FLASH memory.
   

  Frame Speed Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)

• Batteries--Proprietary, AA, or Both          x
  While NiMH AA batteries are slightly cheaper than proprietary NiMH or Li-Ion packs, they are not as energy dense, and they have a much higher self-discharge rate (than Li-Ion batteries). Most D-SLRs have a vertical grip accessory, which allow the use of either Li-Ion or AA batteries. Most D-SLRs do use Li-Ion batteries, but some older models, and a few newer models, were designed for AA batteries only. Many of the AA models can use the RCRV-3, a rechargeable lithium-ion cell that is the size of two AA cells.
  
  Some people are philosophically opposed to Li-Ion battery packs, because of their proprietary nature. However the mainstream D-SLRs, such as those from Nikon and Canon, have after-market Li-Ion battery packs available at very good prices. The one practical aspect of AA batteries is that if you ever find yourself with discharged batteries and no power source, you can buy AA batteries in most places in the world. A vertical grip that can use AA batteries is a good compromise, offering both the advantages of Li-Ion, and the emergency availability of AA cells.
  
  See http://batterydata.com for more information on the trade-offs of battery types. This web site was developed to counter some of the myths regarding Li-Ion and NiMH batteries.
   

• Battery Chargers
  Ensure that there are chargers, either from the camera manufacturer, or after-market, that allow you to charge batteries in a vehicle, without the use of a DC to AC inverter. Lenmar makes a wide variety of such chargers.

• Uses Same Lenses from Manufacturer's Film Models.          x
  If you already own a bunch of lenses from a Nikon, Pentax, Canon, or Minolta film camera, this will play a big factor in your choice of digital SLR. For example, if you were choosing a camera based solely on image quality, you'd avoid the Pentax *istD and *istDs, but if you already have a load of compatible lenses, the small difference in image quality would probably be acceptable.        x
   

• Mirror Lock-Up         x
  Mirror lock-up delays the shutter release for a few seconds. This allows vibrations that are caused by the pressing of the shutter-release and the action of the mirror flipping up, to stop prior to the shutter being released. This feature is normally used when the camera is on a tripod (shutter release vibration can also be eliminated by using the self timer), with slow shutter speeds, and long lenses.      x
  
  Note that while the old Canon EOS-300D didn't come with mirror lock capability, there is a firmware hack that adds this feature. The EOS-350D does have mirror lock-up as a standard feature. There is no way to add mirror lock-up to the Fuji S2 Pro, Nikon D70/D70s, or the Olympus Evolt E300. Note that dpreview.com, and B&H Photo's web site, incorrectly state that the Pentax *istDs does not have mirror lock-up (it does have it).
  
  Do not confuse the mirror lock-up function used to get the mirror out of the way in order to clean the sensor (i.e. what occurs on the Nikon D50/D70s), with true mirror-lock functionality.
   

• Compact Flash (CF) Memory Cards          x
  For point and shoot cameras, Secure Digital memory is okay, since you can now purchase 1GB SD cards for not much more than 1GB CF cards. But for high resolution digital SLRs, you may want to buy 2GB and 4GB memory cards, especially if shooting in RAW mode, which uses a lot of memory per photo. There are some 2GB SD cards available, but that's the top limit as of now. CF cards are available in 4GB and 8GB as well as smaller sizes.       x
  
  Almost every D-SLR does use Compact Flash, so this isn't a difficult criteria to meet, but for some reason (probably cost), Pentax went from Compact Flash to Secure Digital on the *istDs (the *istD uses Compact Flash), and Nikon went to SD on their entry level D50. Pentax may have wanted to draw a clear distinction between the two cameras, with one being amateur level, and the other being prosumer level, but the real result will be a loss of sales to the Nikon D70 and Canon EOS-350D.
  
  Be sure to buy fast memory cards, rated at least 40x. Slow cards are a pain in the butt, both when shooting large numbers of pictures in rapid succession, and when transferring data from the card to the computer. Compact Flash card pricing varies a lot by reseller. At this point in time (January 2006), a 2GB card (50x) sells for around $100, and a 1GB card sells for around $75. 4GB cards are much more expensive per MB. Some people like to use several smaller cards, since if a card fails not all photos are lost.
   

• USB 2.0 and/or Firewire (IEEE1394) Interface        x
  For high speed transfer without removing the memory card from the camera, you want to avoid cameras that are only USB 1.1, or "Full Speed" USB 2.0. Some people may not care about this because they prefer to remove the card to a card reader, but it's better for the camera to minimize the number of insertion/removal cycles of the memory card.
  
  Note that even on cameras with USB 2.0, you will not get the full transfer rate of 480 Mb/s (versus 12 Mb/s of USB 1.1); the actual rate will depend on the camera's electronics, firmware, and the speed of the memory card. Watch out for camera manufacturers that claim USB 2.0 support but add the term "Full Speed USB." "Full Speed USB" is 12 Mb/s maximum, the same as USB 1.1. Read http://www.everythingusb.com/usb2/faq.htm for more information on the "Full Speed" versus "Hi-Speed" scam, but remember that even cameras that actually do provide true USB 2.0, will not actually transfer data at the maximum theoretical rate.
  
  USB 2.0 is probably better for most people, since nearly every new PC has USB 2.0 as standard. Many of the low-end PCs don't have Firewire ports (though they can be added to desktop PCs very inexpensively). Computers from Apple all have Firewire and USB 2.0. Click http://www.softwareandstuff.com/ and search for "Firewire" to find inexpensive PCI and CardBus/PCMCIA adapters for Firewire.
   

• LCD Size        x
  LCD sizes vary from 1.8" to 2.5". In general, the larger the LCD size, the better. The slight downside of a larger LCD is that it runs the battery down slightly faster.        x
   

• Viewfinder Magnification        x
  This is a personal preference. A viewfinder with a high magnification gives you a better view of your subject, and makes it easier to do manual focusing, but if it's too big (i.e. >= 0.95x, then you have to move your eyes around a lot in order to see the whole scene. On the other hand, a viewfinder with a smaller magnification allows you to see the whole scene, but it may be harder to see details and harder to do manual focusing, and below 0.8x there is a "tunnel-vision" effect. Somewhere between 0.8x and 0.9x is fine, especially if, like most users, you don't use manual focusing very much. You probably don't want to go below 0.8x or above 0.9x, unless you have some special need, but this should not be a deciding factor in the selection of a camera.        x
   

• Size and Weight         x
  There are big variations in size and weight between models. Size and weight are personal preferences. Do not believe that smaller and lighter are necessarily better. The size of your hands, and a weight you feel comfortable with, are important considerations. Many people do not like a camera that is too light, but on the other hand, many people will find that the heavy cameras are too tiring to hold for long periods of time. Remember that AA batteries weigh more than Li-Ion battery packs and are less efficient in terms of energy storage, both in terms of size and weight.

  Body Size Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)	Body Weight Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)
  	=

• Ergonomics        x
  Ergonomics is something that is difficult to measure objectively. You need to feel comfortable with the placement of dials and controls. Some cameras have more buttons and dials than others, and allow direct access to features that on other cameras may require the use of menus. Read several reviews on the cameras you are considering, and see what the reviewers say about the ergonomics. There is a learning curve with any complex camera, and some people make too big a deal of minor annoyances that go away once the user becomes familiar with the camera.      
    

• Shutter Rating (Cycles)
  Camera shutters have finite lifetimes. Entry level and amateur cameras usually have ratings of around 50,000 cycles, prosumer models have ratings of up to 100,000 cycles, and professional models often have ratings up to 200,000 cycles. Don't laugh! It is entirely possible to reach these numbers over the life of the camera. Of course in most cases you'll be able to go longer than the rating, the camera doesn't instantly fail once you reach the rated shutter cycles, but it is something to look at if you're deciding between say a Nikon D100 or a Canon 20D, or between a Canon EOS-350D and a Canon 20D. Only Canon and Nikon actually disclose their shutter life cycle ratings, but you can pretty much be assured that the manufacturers that don't disclose their numbers, keep them secret for a reason.
   

• Sensor Technology        x
  The type of sensor technology, generally CCD or CMOS, need not be a consideration in the selection of a camera. In general, CMOS sensors are less noisy, but there are noisy CMOS sensors, and relatively low noise CCD sensors as well. You should look at results, not the sensor type. There is a good article about Canon's cutting-edge CMOS sensor technology at: http://www.letsgodigital.org/en/news/articles/story_2588.html. The advantages of Canon's sensor technology are difficult to overcome. Canon is an engineering-based company, that designs and manufacture all critical sub-systems of their high end products themselves, while most other D-SLR manufacturers (except Fuji) simply buy sensors from Sony or Kodak. Nikon has produced one sensor (used in the D2H/D2Hs), and is believed to be working on its own CMOS sensors, in an effort to catch up with Canon. Having to buy sensors from another company, is analogous to an automobile manufacturer having to buy engines from another company, rather than manufacturing their own.       x
    

• Moiré        x
  The higher the sensor resolution, the greater the danger of moiré. Moiré is basically an issue where extremely fine detail is not resolved correctly, due to aliasing. Moiré elimination is a fine point of sensor and anti-aliasing filter design, as removing it in post-processing is difficult. You can read about what Canon has done to reduce moiré, at http://www.letsgodigital.org/en/news/articles/story_2588.html. Excessive moiré is an issue on the Nikon D70, but not on the Canon digital SLRs.        x
   

• Pixel Pitch         x
  Pixel pitch is an issue because due to semiconductor physics, the smaller the pixel size, the greater the noise. Pixel pitch is not always an accurate indicator of the noise levels, since some cameras with large pixel pitches still have excessive noise. For example, the Foveon sensor used in the Sigma SD9 & SD10 has a large pixel pitch, but is much noisier than the smaller-pitch sensor in the Canon EOS-20D. Canon has proven to be especially good at keeping noise levels down even as the pixel pitch shrinks. See the article Digital Cameras: Does Pixel Size Matter? for more information on this subject.       x

  There are noise issues with very small pixel pitches. The Kodak KAF-8300CE sensor, used in the Olympus E-300, has a pixel pitch of 5.4 microns, the smallest of any CCD (this is necessary because the sensor is very small, with a 2.0 crop factor for the 4:3 system). The new Nikon D2X has almost as small a pixel pitch as the Olympus, 5.5 microns, and has noise issues that are inexcusable for a camera as expensive as the D2X. 

  Pixel density is simply the number of pixels per square millimeter of sensor area. In general, the lower the pixel density the better, because it implies larger pixels (which means lower noise). Pixel density is not always an accurate indicator of the noise levels, since some cameras with low pixel densities still have excessive noise. 

  There are also moiré issues with small pixel pitches, though at least Canon has done a good job in solving the moiré issue.

  Pixel Pitch Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)	Pixel Density Bar Graph (Click Thumbnail)

Please also see: What a Professional Looks for in a Digital SLR

Wide Angle Lenses, Free Telephotos, Crop Factors, and Chromatic Aberration

• Who Needs a Wide Angle Lens Anyway?
  Wide angle lenses are popular amongst both professionals and amateurs. A wedding photographer wouldn't dream of not packing a wide-angle lens for those large group photos of the families, and amateurs often have similar needs. Wide angle lenses are traditionally the most expensive non-specialty lenses.        x
   

• Crop Factor/Focal Length Multiplier         x
  Except for the very high end professional models, Digital SLRs use a sensor that is smaller than a 35mm film frame. They do this for cost reasons. The practical result of the smaller sensor is that the focal length of all lenses changes (in terms of what it is on 35mm cameras) because you are shooting only through the center of the lens, not all the way to the edges. If you multiply the sensor dimensions by 1.5 to get to the 36mm x 24mm size of a 35mm frame, the camera is said to have a 1.5 crop factor, or a 1.5 focal length multiplier. A 17-35 wide angle zoom lens now has an equivalent focal length of 25.5-52.5mm, which is no longer considered wide angle. On the other hand, a 100-300mm lens becomes a 150-450mm lens. The photographer with a collection of lenses from his film camera, suddenly finds that he or she has no wide angle lenses, but has much more telephoto range than necessary. x
   

• Wow, I Get a Much Longer Telephoto Lens, for Free, by Virtue of the Smaller Sensor!        x
  Uh, not necessarily. You can always simulate a long telephoto by blowing up the center of a full frame sensor. You don't gain anything, with the smaller sensor unless you're talking about full frame and sub-full frame with the same number of megapixels.       x
  
  It's "good" thing for telephoto if you assume that the same number of megapixels in the small sensor would otherwise have been spread across the greater area of a full size sensor, rather than the full size sensor being more megapixels (so you're not "wasting" megapixels by cropping a larger sensor).        x
   

• Screw the Crop Factor, Just Buy Wider Wide-Angle Lenses        x
  The solution for the amateur, unwilling to spend $8000 on a full frame digital SLR, is to buy an even wider angle lens. Canon makes a decent 10-22mm lens for their popular EOS-300D and 20D bodies, which sells for around $650. Sigma is introducing a 10-20mm wide angle zoom for a variety of mounts, and it's expected to sell for around $650 as well. Professional photographers, with a collection of high cost professional lenses, find it more sensible to spend the extra money on a digital body with a smaller crop factor, than to buy new lenses (if such lenses are even available in the professional grade). Canon has professional bodies with a full-size, 36x24mm sensor (1.0 crop factor), as well as one with a 1.3 crop factor.        x
   

• Chromatic Aberration with Full Frame Sensors        x
  Many professionals limit themselves to 80% or so of full-frame on full frame digital SLRs (and on film). This is to reduce chromatic aberration from the edges of the lens. This essentially means that they are imposing a 1.25 crop factor on themselves. This makes the Canon EOS-1D Mark II an attractive proposition, since it effectively enforces shooting through the center of the glass. It's no secret that shooting center glass has always had advantages, even when using film.       x
  
  There is an excellent discussion of the pros and cons of full frame sensors at: http://www.fredmiranda.com/1Ds_review/index_fullframe.html. 

Lens Choices

http://www.dcviews.com/ has the best charts on lenses for each brand of digital SLR

Canon: http://www.dcviews.com/lenses/Canon-lenses.htm

Konica-Minolta: http://www.dcviews.com/lenses/Minolta-lenses.htm

Olympus: http://www.dcviews.com/lenses/Olympus-lenses.htm

Nikon: http://www.dcviews.com/lenses/Nikon-lenses.htm

Pentax: http://www.dcviews.com/lenses/Pentax-lenses.htm

Please also see: Sensor Size, Focal Length Multiplier, & Pixel Dimensions

Ratings of Currently Available Digital SLRs
Unlike some other digital camera sites, we make an effort to avoid "grade inflation." On one popular digital camera site, there are basically three ratings: Highly Recommended (Good), Recommended (Not so Good), and Above Average (Pretty Bad). We suspect than any review that results in a rating that is less than "Above Average" is simply not put on the site. It's almost like Starbucks with three coffee sizes with names that all imply large (tall, grande, venti). Note that many of the unacceptable cameras have been taken off the market, such as all of the Kodak digital SLRs, both of the Sigma digital SLRs, and the Olympus E-300, so we have removed them from the chart. Also, the Olympus E-330, which is replacing the discontinued Olympus E-300, has not yet been evaluated (the E-330 uses a new type of sensor, and it is possible that it will be better than the E-300).

		Market Segment
		Entry Level	Amateur	Prosumer	Professional	High-End Professional
	Unacceptable	Olympus E-500	Olympus E-1	Fuji FinePix S2 Pro Fuji FinePix S3 Pro
	Good	Pentax *istDs2	Pentax *istD
	Excellent		Maxxum Dynax 5D* Nikon D70/D70s Olympus E-330	Maxxum Dynax 7D	Nikon D2Hs
	Superb	Nikon D50	Canon EOS-350D	Canon EOS-20D Nikon D200	Canon EOS-1D Mark II Canon EOS-5D Nikon D2x	Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II

---

Unacceptable
Avoid the following cameras completely:x

• Olympus E1 Issues: Image quality, Resolution too low, Unacceptably high noise at higher ISO settings, No built in flash, Lens selection. The so-called 4:3 standard has not gone anywhere, so do not ever expect a good selection of lenses. Apparently the E1 is out of production, and Olympus is selling out of existing inventory.
   

• Olympus Evolt (E-500) Issues: Image quality, no USB 2.0 or Firewire, Unacceptably high noise at higher ISO settings, No Mirror Lock-Up, Lens selection.  The so-called 4:3 standard has not gone anywhere, so do not ever expect a good selection of lenses. 
      x

• Fuji FinePix S2 Pro Issues: AA Batteries only, Requires CR123A in addition to AA batteries, Slow frame rate, No vertical grip, Lacks mirror lock-up. Very low noise at high ISO settings is a strong point of this camera. Image quality is fine if you can live with the other limitations. 
   

• Fuji FinePix S3 Issues: No mirror lock-up is inexcusable in a camera that purports to be professional level. Slow writing speed to memory card, Integrated vertical grip needs more functionality, very slow flash sync, color accuracy. Very low noise at high ISO settings, and wide dynamic range are strong points of this camera, and hence it is a popular portrait studio camera, but that's the only area in which it excels.

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Acceptable (click for review)
The cameras in this category aren't the best choices for the money, but they are still acceptable if, for example, you already have lenses that will fit them.

• Pentax *istD Issues: Image quality, no USB 2.0 or Firewire. Still a good choice if you have existing compatible Pentax lenses, but at $1200 it's just a bit less than the Canon 20D, which is far superior.      x
   

• Pentax *istDs2 Issues: Requires RAW mode for good image quality, No vertical grip available. Still a good choice if you have existing compatible Pentax lenses, and a good deal at less than $800, though the Canon EOS-350D and Nikon D70s are superior choices in the same $800-1000 price range. Note that there is a firmware upgrade that adds continuous auto-focus to the camera, this was one of the major issues with this camera in the past.

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Excellent (click for review)
The cameras in this category are really where you should start looking.

• Konica Minolta Maxxum 5D Issues: This is essentially a de-featured Maxxum 7D, intended for the amateur segment. It is an excellent deal at around $800 for the body-only. This model is real competition for the Nikon D70s. It still isn't quite as good as the EOS-350D, but if you have Minolta lenses already, or if you want the anti-shake in the camera, then it's pretty compelling.
   

• Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D Issues: Poor software for RAW conversion, but you can always buy Photoshop. Key feature is the built in image stabilization. Be sure that you have the firmware update that speeds up the USB connection, and that speeds up writing to the Compact Flash card.  Note that on March 10th, Konica-Minolta announced three new lenses for the 7D, including a super-wide-angle zoom. which make the 7D a more compelling choice.
   

• Nikon D2Hs Issues: Low resolution, noise levels are too high. Lowest ISO setting is ISO 200. Biggest strength is the high frame rate. 802.11 wireless communication option is unique. Canon EOS-1D Mark II is a better choice unless you are committed to the Nikon lens mount. The Nikon D2x is a better choice for the Nikon lens mount, despite the higher price, and achieves a good frame rate when used in lower resolution mode. The D2Hs is a specialty camera for times when high resolution is not necessary, and where the lack of less than IS0 200 is not an issue.         x
   

• Nikon D70s Issues: No ISO 100, Moiré, No mirror-lock-up, No vertical grip connections (there is an after-market vertical grip that uses cables), More limited useful ISO range than the Canon EOS-350D,  No USB 2.0 or Firewire. A good choice if you're lens-committed to the Nikon mount, but the moiré problem is an issue on the D70 that is unacceptable to some users. The Canon EOS-350D may be a better choice in terms of functionality, except for the lack of spot metering. The D70's 18-70mm kit lens is better than the 18-55 kit lens on the EOS-350D, so if you plan to never buy any other lenses the D70s may be a better choice.
   

• Olympus E-330. The new 7.5 megapixel sensor from Panasonic seems to have sufficiently solved the noise issues that plagued earlier Olympus models. You still won't get low noise at high ISO, like you will with the Nikon D50 or Canon EOS-350D, but stick below ISO 400 and you'll be fine. Some people may scoff at the live-preview feature, but it does have it's advantages, i.e., a camera high on a tripod can still be aimed properly using live-preview. As a long time Olympus film camera fan, I'm glad to see them getting their act together in the D-SLR market. Still, be aware that there's not going to be any upgrade path to prosumer or professional grade cameras if you go the Olympus route, they are strictly playing in the amateur market segment, and the 4:3 system limits their ability to move up-market.

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Superb (click for review)
The cameras in this category are top of the line in their segment.

• Nikon D50 (The D50 is essentially a de-featured D70, at a lower price, hence it shares many of the same issues with the D70, but at the lower price these are acceptable compromises). Issues: No ISO 100, Moiré, No mirror-lock-up, No vertical grip connections. Nikon has moved to a cheaper, 18-55mm kit lens, similar to the kit lens on the EOS-350D and EOS-300D. Best sub-$600 digital SLR on the market.
  

• Canon EOS-350D (Digital Rebel XT) Issues: No spot metering. Best sub-$1000 digital SLR on the market.
    

• Canon EOS-30D Issues: None. Best sub-$1500 digital SLR on the market.
    

• Canon EOS-1D Mark II Issues: No professional grade, super-wide-angle zoom lenses, that sufficiently compensate for the 1.3 crop factor, are available. There are second-tier amateur quality super-wide-angle lenses available, but these may not be suitable for professional use. Best $5000 digital SLR on the market. Beats the D2x despite being lower resolution, by virtue of its lower noise at higher ISOs, and by its smaller crop factor.
      

• Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II  Best digital SLR on the market (not including medium format models).
   

• Nikon D200. An excellent choice if you're lens-committed to the Nikon mount. This is the long-awaited D100 replacement.
  

• Nikon D2x (Review 2, Review 3) This is Nikon's answer to the EOS-1D Mark II. Issues: Very big crop factor for a professional grade camera. Noise above ISO 400 is too high for such an expensive camera, though this was expected due to the extremely small pixel size. No professional grade super-wide-angle zoom lenses, that sufficiently compensate for the 1.5 crop factor, are available yet. Encrypted white balance information in RAW file severely limits post processing options, though there are some illegal workarounds to this limitation. Lower frame rate than the EOS-1D Mark II at full resolution, but a higher frame rate is available if you use only 6.8 megapixels.

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Where to Buy?

Look at the reputable on-line photographic retailers such as Adorama and B&H. Some models of digital SLRs are priced better at non-photographic equipment internet retailers such as Amazon.com. The dominance of Canon in digital SLRs has had the side effect of making Canon products available at big discounts from non-camera retailers, such as Amazon.com, while this isn't the case with Nikon or other manufacturers. For Amazon.com, look for periodic discounts and coupons. Buydig.com is often the cheapest reliable store, but lately they've had an annoying habit of only offering bundles (memory cards, etc.) on some popular models.

Brick and mortar retailers, while usually more expensive, do have some advantages, and some will come pretty close to on-line pricing if you ask nicely. You'll likely have a more difficult time returning an item to a camera store than to a place like Amazon.

Amazon periodically has promotions that provide a future Amazon credit,  from $50 to $150. The credits are sent in an e-mail, six weeks or so after the purchase.

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Beware of Biased Reviews

Since many people depend on reviews to help them decide which equipment to purchase, it's important to know if the review you're reading is unbiased or not. There are some camera review sites that are nothing more than propaganda mouthpieces to promote a specific brand or model of camera.

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Relatively Unbiased Digital Camera Reviews

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/ (Canon only)
http://stevesdigicams.com

http://dpreview.com

http://www.hardwarezone.com

http://www.dcresource.com

http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/

http://digitalcamerashortlist.com

http://digitalslrinfo.com

http://www.imaging-resource.com
http://www.bythom.com

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Biased Digital Camera Reviews

http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html

http://www.moosepeterson.com/digitaldarkroom/index.html

http://kenrockwell.com You are unlikely to ever find a site with so much incorrect information. We read it just to see what amusing new crap is put up there each week! From his claim that he gets 4 million hits a month, to the incorrect statements about sensor technology, sensor size, and ISO speeds, and available lenses for the competition, his site is a treasure trove of misinformation. And he has the cojones to ask for donations for his site! We especially liked his claim that the D70s was not a real product!

http://www.digitalreview.ca/

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Direct Links to Purchase Equipment at Amazon or Adorama

If You Found this Site Useful, Please Support Us by Using these Direct Links to Purchase Products, Thanks. No lies here, when you purchase using these links, we get a commission. It doesn't cost you anything extra. We're not getting rich off this, we've collected only a few thousand dollars over several years.

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Canon Entry Level and Amateur Digital SLRs
Canon EOS-3000D Body Only	Canon EOS-3000D with 18-55 EF-S Lens	Canon EOS-350D (Digital Rebel XT) Body Only	Canon EOS-350D (Digital Rebel XT) with 18-55 EF-S Lens
Coming Soon	Coming Soon
Coming Soon	Coming Soon	Buy From	Buy From

 

Canon Prosumer Digital SLRs
Canon EOS-20D Body Only	Canon EOS-20D with 18-55 Lens	Canon EOS-20D with 17-85mm  Image Stabilized Lens	Canon EOS-30D
			Coming Soon
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Coming Soon

 

Canon Professional Digital SLRs
Canon EOS-5D Body Only	Canon 1D Mark II Body Only	Canon 1Ds Mark II Body Only
	Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From

 

Popular Lenses  for Canon EOS Digital SLRs
Canon EF-S 10-22mm Lens for 20D/20Da and 300D	Canon EF 17-85mm Image Stabilized Lens	Canon EF 28-135mm Image Stabilized Lens	Canon EF 100-300 Lens	Canon EF 70-300mm Image Stabilized Lens	Canon EF 24-105mm  L Lens
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From
Remember to Purchase Lens Hoods and Filters

 

Battery Grips for Canon EOS Digital SLRs
BGE3 Battery Grip for EOS 350D	BGE2 Battery Grip for EOS 20D/20Da	BGE4 Battery Grip for EOS 5D
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From

 

Popular Accessories for Canon EOS Digital SLRs
EH17L Semi-Hard Case for EOS 20D/20Da		580EX Flash	RS-80N3 Remote Switch for EOS-1D Mark II, 10D, 20D	Lemmar DVC-511 AC/DC Charger for BP-511 Batteries
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From

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Note: Konica-Minolta is Exiting the Digital Camera Business and Has Sold the Digital SLR portion of the Business to Sony.
However they are still selling their two D-SLR products, and lenses will continue to be available.

Konica- Minolta Digital SLRs
Konica-Minolta Maxxum 5D Body Only	Konica-Minolta Maxxum 5D with 18-70mm Lens	Konica-Minolta Maxxum 7D Body Only	Konica-Minolta Maxxum 7D with 28-100 Lens
Not Available from Adorama	Not Available from Adorama	Buy From	Buy From

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Nikon Digital SLRs
Nikon D50 Body Only	Nikon D50 with 18-55mm Lens	Nikon D70S Body Only	Nikon D70S with 18-70mm Lens	Nikon D70S with 18-70mm and 55-200mm Lenses
		Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From

 

Nikon Digital SLRs
Nikon D200 with 18-200 Vibration-Reduction Lens	Nikon D200 with 18-70mm Lens	Nikon D200 Body Only	Nikon D2Hs Body Only	Nikon D2X Body Only	Nikon D3H Full Frame Digital SLR
Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon	Not Available  from Amazon	Coming Soon
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Coming Soon

 

Popular Lenses & Accessories for Nikon Digital SLRs
	Nikkor 18 - 200 mm f/3.5-5.6G VR	Nikkor 28-200 G	Nikkor 24-120 VR	Nikkor 18-70	Nikkor 12-24 DX
	Not Available from Adorama	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From
Remember to Purchase Lens Hoods and Filters

 

Popular Accessories for Nikon Digital SLRs
CF-D100 Case for Nikon D100	ML-L3 IR Remote for D70	SB-800
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From
Remember to Purchase Lens Hoods and Filters

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Olympus Digital SLRs
Olympus E-330 Evolt with 14-45mm Lens	Olympus E-300 Evolt with 14-45mm Lens
Not yet on Adorama Site	Buy From

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Pentax Digital SLRs
Pentax *istD Body Only	Pentax *istD with 16-45mm Lens	Pentax *istDs Body Only	Pentax *istDs with 18-55mm Lens
Buy From	Buy From	Buy From	Buy From

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If the item you are trying to buy doesn't have a direct link, please enter Amazon or Adorama using the links below. Thanks!

 

The Amazon.com Visa Card is a pretty good deal, with a 3% discount, paid in Amazon gift certificates, for purchases made at Amazon.com. You get a $20 credit for your first order. You earn three points for every dollar you spend at Amazon and one point for every dollar you spend elsewhere. After 2500 points ($834 spent at Amazon) you get a $25 Amazon Credit. There is no annual fee. The Interest rate isn't very good, so this is not a card to keep a balance on. We appreciate it very much when you use the link below to sign up for the Amazon Visa Card.

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Accolades for DigitalSLRInfo.com

"The whole thing seems well thought out and well organized, to lead the reader through the various considerations."

"Your web site is great. Thanks for making the info available."

"Excellent reading...thanks. You presented a very fair, and detailed summary for prospective first-time dSLR owners. I happen to be in that category, so your article couldn't have come at a better time."

"Good work on the chart!"

"Thanks for the great DSLR information. Really apprecisted <sic>."

"I want to thank you for all the hard work you've put into this grid. I wish it had been around when I was debating on getting my Digital Rebel. And "good on ya" for sticking to your guns in all the unnecessary abuse that's been heaped on you for choices you made in the grid. A virtual handshake and pat on the back to you! 8-)"

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Appendices

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What Does a Professional Look for in a Digital SLR?

This is a work in progress, so please be patient. It was rushed out after becoming aware that some Usenet posters had absolutely no idea of what constituted a professional level camera. The topics that are covered are:

Click for Article Regarding What a Professional Looks for in a Digital SLR

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Sensor Size, Focal Length Multiplier, & Pixel Dimensions

This section was added because lately we've seen a rash of incorrect statements regarding sensor size, focal length multiplier, and pixel dimensions. This section includes the following topics:

Click for Article Regarding Sensor Size, Focal Length Multiplier, & Pixel Dimensions

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Other Useful Nordic Group Web Sites

Digital Camera Short List
Looking for a non-SLR Digital Camera? Check out: http://digitalcamerashortlist.com

Travel Tripods
Looking for a Travel Tripod? Check out: http://nordicgroup.us/tripod

NiMH Battery Chargers
Looking for NiMH Battery Chargers? Check out:  http://nordicgroup.us/chargers

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Disclaimers

	This is a non-commercial, informational site.
	Nothing is sold on this site.
	No advertising is accepted.
	Cameras are accepted for testing purposes only.
	We do not work for, or own stock in, any camera manufacturer.
	We receive affiliate fees from Amazon and Adorama, when visitors to this site are kind enough to enter these sites via my affiliate links, and make purchases.
	This site has upset a few people, who don't like to see a piece of equipment that they have purchased being criticized for any reason. It is not the purpose of this site to disparage the choices that any individuals have made.

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Feedback: Send comments to scharf.steven@geemail.com but change the ISP to gmail.com

© 2006,  The Nordic Group