Bicycle Chain Cleaning and Lubrication

Unbiased Information on Bicycle Chain Cleaning and Lubing

Last Update: 2 December 2013

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Introduction

Chain cleaning and lubrication are two very contentious topics among cyclists. Some cyclists spend an inordinate amount of time and money on chain maintenance for no real benefit, other than it makes them feel good to believe that they are doing something good for their chain. Recreational chain maintenance takes time away from actual riding. Worse, some methods of chain cleaning and lubrication neither clean, nor lubricate, but have a following nonetheless. In fact, many of the chain cleaning methods that are in use actually damage the chain.

The bottom line is that the best products for cleaning and lubricating bicycle chains are the simplest and cheapest, kerosene or mineral spirits to clean, and chainsaw oil or foaming chain lube to lubricate. Don't waste money on fancy cleaners and lubricants.

Above all, never clean your chain with water-based cleaners, and don't use hot wax as a chain lubricant (because it isn't one!). By using commonly available, inexpensive products, you can spend a minimum amount of time and money on chain maintenance, and achieve superior results in terms of lubrication and chain life.

Personally, I have a lot of bicycle chains to maintain, not only in my own immediate family, but chains on the bicycles of extended family, as well as of friends of my kids. I have to use efficient. cost-effective, and time-effective methods of chain maintenance.

Cleaning a Chain on the Bike

What's Needed

1. Chain cleaning device such as the Park Cyclone Chain Scrubber
2. Non-water based solvent, such as kerosene or mineral spirits (don't use gasoline).
3. Empty plastic 1 gallon milk jug
4. Funnel
5. Disposable latex gloves
6. Chain Master (optional)

  or                     

Kerosene and Mineral Spirits are Extremely Flammable! Use Caution!

Process

1. Put on latex gloves.
2. If using a Chain Master, remove the rear wheel, and install the Chain Master
3. Fill the chain cleaning device with kerosene.
4. Run the chain slowly through the kerosene for one minute.
5. Pour the dirty kerosene into the plastic milk jug.
6. Clean any dirt out of the chain tool with some more kerosene.
7. Repeat steps 2-5 until the kerosene no longer becomes dirty after the chain is run through. This may require three or more solvent changes. It is crucial to keep repeating the process, as dirt and grit will be suspended in the solvent and will recontaminate the chain, unless you keep removing the dirty solvent, along with any dirt and grit.

What About the Dirty Solvent?

1. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter (coffee filter) and reuse it for all but the final cleaning of the chain.
2. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter (coffee filter) and use it as charcoal lighter fluid.
3. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter and burn it in a kerosene lamp.
4. You can bring it to a hazardous waste disposal site. Many cities sponsor these programs where you can dispose of used chemicals.

Why is this method the best?

1. The links are in motion as the pass through the solvent, with the rollers spinning and the links flexing. You cannot obtain this sort of link action with the chain off the bike in a bottle of solvent, or in a parts cleaner. As Sheldon Brown writes, "The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards."
2. The chain gets cleaner with each repetition of the process, with the dirty solvent removed, the contaminants don't remain in the process.
3. Solvents such as kerosene do not leave rust-causing moisture in the chain like water-based solvents do.
4. Keeping the chain on the bicycle eliminates weakening the chain by rivet extraction. As Sheldon Brown writes, "...modern chains have rivets that are tighter fitting into the chain plates. The new rivets are difficult to remove and reinstall without damaging either the rivet or the side plate."
5. It requires very little time.
6. The Chain Master avoids spattering solvent on the wheel and tire.

Note that early chain-cleaning tools were rather messy, but newer models are vastly improved.

Cleaning a Chain off the Bike

If you plan to clean your chain off the bike, you should install a Craig Super Link III on your chain. This will speed the process as well as ensuring that your chain does not develop weak spots. These are available from Lickton's and some bicycle shops. As Sheldon Brown writes, "If you wish to make a habit of cleaning your chain off-the-bike, the best approach is to buy an aftermarket master link, such as the Craig Super Link or SRAM PowerLink ."

What's Needed

1. Chain tool, unless your chain has a master link
2. Non-water based solvent, such as kerosene or mineral spirits (don't use gasoline)
3. Empty plastic 2 liter soda bottle
4. Funnel
5. Disposable latex gloves
6. Empty plastic 1 gallon milk jug
7. Chain brush
8. Strainer
9. Deep pie tin

  or                                 

Warning: Kerosene and Mineral Spirits are Extremely Flammable! Use Caution!

Process

1. Put on latex gloves.
2. Remove the chain from the bicycle with the chain tool (unless the chain has a master link)
3. Use the chain brush to brush off surface dirt.
4. Fill the pie tin with solvent
5. Place the chain in the strainer
6. Place the strainer into the pie tin of solvent
7. Agitate the chain for a few minutes. The dirt will fall through the strainer to the bottom of the pie tin.
8. Fill the plastic bottle with 8 ounces or so of kerosene.
9. Put the chain into the bottle and put on the cap tightly.
10. Let the chain soak for several minutes.
11. Shake vigorously for one minute.
12. Open the bottle and pour the dirty kerosene into the plastic milk jug.
13. Repeat steps 8-12 until the kerosene no longer becomes dirty after the bottle is shaken. This may require three or more solvent changes. It is crucial to keep repeating the process, as dirt and grit will be suspended in the solvent and will recontaminate the chain, unless you keep removing the dirty solvent, along with any dirt and grit.
14. Reinstall the chain, ensuring that the rivet is properly inserted, and that the chain does not bind.

What About the Dirty Solvent?

1. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter (coffee filter) and reuse it for all but the final cleaning of the chain.
2. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter (coffee filter) and use it as charcoal lighter fluid.
3. You can filter the dirty kerosene through a paper filter and burn it in a kerosene lamp.
4. You can bring it to a hazardous waste disposal site. Many cities sponsor these programs where you can dispose of used chemicals.

Why is this method good?

1. The chain is being agitated in the solvent. While the links and rollers are not spinning and flexing as with a chain cleaning tool, the agitation of the chain is sufficient, if not quite as good.
2. The chain gets cleaner with each repetition of the process, with the dirty solvent removed, the contaminants don't remain in the process.
3. Solvents such as kerosene do not leave rust-causing moisture in the chain like water-based solvents do.

The downside of this method is that it requires removal of the chain, it doesn't clean quite as well, and it takes longer than using an on-bike chain cleaning tool.

How NOT to Clean a Chain

1. Avoid water-based solvents such as Simple Green. If you insist on using Simple Green, use the non-corrosive industrial formulation, Extreme Simple Green. Be certain to extract all the water from inside the chain prior to lubrication (this may require heating the chain to evaporate all the water).
2. Avoid rinsing chains in water. Again, if you insist on using water, be certain to extract all the water from inside the chain prior to lubrication (this may require heating the chain to evaporate all the water).

Lubricating a Chain on the Bike, Method 1

What's Needed

1. Chain cleaning device such as the Park Cyclone Chain Scrubber (having two of these eliminates the need to use the same one for both cleaning and lubing).
2. Chainsaw Oil
3. Lint free rag
4. Disposable latex gloves

Process

1. Put on latex gloves.
2. Fill the chain cleaning device with chainsaw oil.
3. Run the chain slowly through the oil for one minute.
4. Wipe excess oil off the chain.
5. Clean the chain cleaning tool with kerosene.

Why is this method the best?

1. In order to properly lubricate a chain with a non-foaming oil, the links must be submerged in oil. Merely dripping oil on each link is less effective than soaking, because dripping doesn't get the oil into the rollers and links as well.
2. Chainsaw oil is not flung off the chain, yet it remains liquid between the rollers and links.
3. It requires very little time because the chain does not have to be removed from the bicycle. It does require that the chain cleaning tool be cleaned with solvent following its use as a lubricating tool.

Lubricating a Chain on the Bike, Method 2

What's Needed

1. Can of motorcycle chain lube (available at motorcycle parts stores). Try to find the formulation for non-O ring chains, such as PJHBrands PJ1. You can order this from http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=21890. Another good spray lubricant is DuPont™ Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon® fluoropolymer which is sold at Lowe's. Another source is http://technichemcorp.com/products/303-lube-foaming-chain-and-cable-lubricant.
2. Lint free rag.

    or or    

Process

1. Spray the lubricant onto the chain while rotating the chain slowly, ensuring that you reach every link.
2. Wipe excess lubricant off the chain.

Why is this method good?

1. The foaming motorcycle chain lube penetrates into the links and rollers. This level of penetration cannot be achieved by dripping oil on each link. Done properly, this method is as good as soaking the chain in oil.
2. It requires very little time because the chain does not have to be removed from the bicycle.

Lubricating a Chain off the Bike

What's Needed

1. Chainsaw Oil
2. Lint free rag
3. Disposable latex gloves
4. Disposable aluminum pie tin

Process

1. Put on latex gloves.
2. Put the clean chain into the pie tin.
3. Pour in just enough oil to cover the chain.
4. Gently agitate the pie tin.
5. Remove the chain from the pie tin and wipe excess oil off the chain with a rag.
6. Recycle the left-over oil, or filter it through a coffee filter for re-use.

Why is this method good?

1. The chainsaw oil penetrates into the links and rollers. This level of penetration cannot be achieved by dripping oil on each link.
2. A flat pie tin minimizes the amount of oil needed to cover the chain.

How NOT to Lubricate a Chain

1. Do not use multi-weight engine oil such as 10W30. Plain 30W oil may be used if chainsaw oil is not available.
2. Do not use paraffin wax. Wax is not a lubricant. Some people like wax because a waxed chain does not attract dirt, and does not leave marks on legs and clothing. This is true, but the problem with paraffin wax is that it simply doesn't work as a chain lubricant. There are some products that mix wax with lubricants to achieve most of the benefits of waxing without all the drawbacks. For example, Klüberplus SK 11-299, Lubricating wax for chains, combines wax with lubricants. As with all waxing, it must be applied by hot-dipping to be effective. I don't know of anyone that's tried this product on bicycle chains, but if the literature is to be believed, it may work.

What the Experts say About Chain Waxing:

"When wax was popular, we'd get customers coming in all the time complaining about shifting problems on their bikes. Removed the wax and lubed with conventional stuff and voila, shifting back to normal." Mike Jacoubowsky, co-owner of Chain Reaction Bicycles.

"Wax is not mobile and cannot return to a location from which it has been removed by rotation of one part on another." Jobst Brandt, author of The Bicycle Wheel

"If you use dry lube or wax, follow product directions and use it often. In some cases, dry lube should be used for every ride. It wears off very quickly and no new lube can flow to the critical wear areas." Craig Metalcraft, manufacturer of Super Link III.

"Downsides of the wax approach include the fact that it is a great deal of trouble, and that wax is probably not as good a lubricant as oil or grease." Sheldon Brown

Note: If you insist on waxing, be sure to do it properly and safely. Buy a small roaster (about $30) to heat the wax. You must submerge the chain until the metal of the chain reaches the same temperature of the wax. Do not attempt to wax your chain using any method other than dipping. Setting your house on fire is not a good plan. Wax your chain often, preferably after every ride.

What about all those fancy chain cleaners and lubricants?

There is no advantage in using these expensive products over simple solvents and lubricants; don't waste your money. If on tour, a small bottle of Phil's Tenacious Oil is convenient, though less effective than submerging the chain in oil, or using foaming chain lubricant. The various chain products do provide some level of amusement. I think my favorite is "Bike Butter."

It's easy to go into business selling chain lubricants. Just buy some small bottles and fill them from five gallon bottles of industrial lubricants. Create a fancy name, and convince bicycle shops to stock your product.

What about molybdenum and Teflon based dry lubricants?

I tried these back in the 1970's with poor results. However "DuPont™ Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon® fluoropolymer" seems like it has solved the problems of the original molybdenum disulfide products. It's also very inexpensive. The key question is how well it penetrates into the links and rollers.

Myths and Facts about Chain Cleaning and Lubrication

Cleaning

Myth: Simple Green is a great chain cleaner.

Fact: Simple Green is corrosive and should never be used on chains. Supposedly, a newer Simple Green product, Extreme Simple Green, is safe for chains. However the statement on their web site, "We’ve found no other aircraft-approved product on the market that matches Extreme Simple Green’s cleaning performance," is a bit disconcerting, as that sort of marketing invariably means that they haven't actually tested it against other products.

Lubrication

Myth: Adding graphite to wax solves the issue of wax not providing lubrication.

Fact: Graphite is corrosive and should not be used on chains.

Myth: Paraffin wax is an ideal lubricant because it doesn't attract dirt.

Fact: The second part of that statement is true. But paraffin is not a lubricant for chains because it isn't fluid. Once it's scraped away by the two parts rubbing against each other, it doesn't flow back to the load bearing surfaces. Wax is more of a protective layer, which is why it is effective at keeping a chain clean. No one that knows anything about chains believes that wax is a lubricant.

Myth: I wax may chains and I get good chain life. This proves that wax is an effective lubricant.

Fact: It's important to separate the issues of chain life and lubrication. A clean chain will last a long time, even if improperly lubricated.

Myth: You can wax a chain by heating the chain and dripping hot wax on it.

Fact: If you insist on using wax, the only way to do it right is to submerge the chain into molten wax for several minutes. Preheating the chain prior to submerging it in the molten wax will shorten the submersion time. Using a torch has two disadvantages. First, the wax doesn't penetrate into the links and rollers. Second, dirt is not flushed out of links and rollers.

Myth: Chain life is the sole indicator of a lubricant's effectiveness

Fact: Chain life is partially based on keeping contaminants out, which hot dipping in wax is effective at doing. However to many riders a lubricant that is effective in reducing friction is also important. As long as the fact that wax isn't a lubricant and the downside of not having a lubricated chain are understood, then waxing by hot dipping is fine.

Other Web Sites on Chain Maintenance

Chain Maintenance by Sheldon Brown

Chain Maintenance by Jobst Brandt
I do take issue with Jobst's "Primitive rule #1: Never oil a chain on the bike." In my extensive experience, of cleaning chains both on and off the bike, I have found no advantage to cleaning it off the bike. In either case you must change the solvent several times (until it runs clean) to avoid suspended dirt and grit from re-contaminating the chain. While some solvent does escape from the chain cleaning tool onto whatever you have under the tool (one of those big metal or plastic trays used to catch leaks from vehicles works well), it isn't really messy if you do it right, plus you use less solvent. Unless you have installed a Superlink III or an SRAM PowerLink, don't remove your chain to clean it.

Chain & Lube Maintenance by the manufacturer or the Superlink III (this is the Wayback machine version, as the original site is gone, thanks to a reader for letting me know about this)

© 2013,  The Nordic Group

Send comments to chainexpert@nordicxxxgroup.us (remove xxx). I strive to provide accurate information on these informational web sites. Corrections and clarifications are gladly made.