You can attach a connector to each lamp for modularity. You then bring a connector for each lamp out of the switch box. Or you can forget about modularity and eliminate the connectors between the lamps and the switch box (only a connector for the charger) but the whole system will have to be installed and removed as a unit. This saves money, assembly time, and will be a bit more reliable. Don't get carried away with modularity unless you're planning to move the system from bike to bike; every extra connector adds expense and assembly time, and decreases reliability.
You cut apart the weatherproof power cable shown below left and use both halves. You'll need five of these (one pair for each lamp, one pair for the switch box to the battery, one half of a pair for the charger to the battery). This is but one connector option, but it's a lot easier and more reliable to use molded connectors that are already attached to wires, than to use Molex type connectors with their individual pins. If you decide to combine the battery and switches together in one enclosure, with three pairs of wires coming out for the lamps, you may want to use a barrel style connector pair for the charger, with the DC Jack mounting on the enclosure. If you put the battery in a frame bag then just use one of the weatherproof power cables on the charger and connect the charger to the battery after you disconnect the battery from the switch box.
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| Weatherproof Power Cable | Philmore 248 DC
Jack 2.5mm Center Pin x 5.5mm ID |
Philmore TC258 5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D. with molded plug & 6' of 18 AWG wire |
Radio Shack DC Jack
274-1576 5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D. |
Radio Shack DC Plug
274-1573 5.5mm D.O. x 2.5mm I.D. |
| $1 | $1.81 | $1.73 | $2.49 | $2.49 |